March 23–29, 2025
Total Distance Walked: 89.04 miles
Start/End: Logroño to Hornillos del Camino

This week I crossed from the La Rioja region into Castilla y León, walking from Logroño to Hornillos del Camino and covering just over 89 miles on foot. The physical miles are starting to pile up, but so are the meaningful connections, and little oddities that make each day memorable.

Rioja is one of my favorite wines, so it felt appropriate to spend so much time literally walking through it. Between the hills of grapevines and the incredible group of people I’ve been traveling with since Los Arcos, this week has felt fuller & richer, like a good wine.

We’ve shared long dinners and short bursts of laughter, swapped stories from our home countries, and learned to navigate the rhythm of walking, resting, and reconnecting each evening. That shared rhythm has made the walk feel easier somehow, even as the miles grow longer.

On Thursday night, I took my first true rest day in Burgos, a city that immediately captured my attention. The Cathedral of Burgos is absolutely stunning! It is massive, ornate, and glowing with history. I attended a pilgrim’s mass that night (possibly with a bit too much wine beforehand), but I showed up, sat in the silence, and let the experience wash over me. Inside and out, the cathedral is breathtaking.

Tonight, as I write this from Hornillos del Camino, I’m waiting on a big communal paella dinner at the albergue. Earlier, we went searching for a post-walk beer and discovered the only bar in town was behind a massive metal wall with the word “bar” scrawled in chalk beside a simple handle. It looked like nothing, and yet, inside, we found a warm space, a few snacks, and a cold drink. Camino magic.

This week was full of little reminders:

• That simplicity is often more than enough.
• That joy is better when shared.
• And that the Camino always gives you exactly what you need, whether it’s wine, paella, or a heavy metal bar door hiding a cold cerveza.