March 16–22, 2025

Total Miles Walked: 85.58

I’ve taken the first 85.58 miles step by step. Below is a day-by-day look at the journey so far with reflections, photos, and the kinds of moments I never want to forget.

St Jean Pied de Port to Rancesvalles

• Miles Walked: 16
• Elevation Gain: 4,901 ft
• Elevation Loss: 2,365 ft

for more details on this portion of the Camino check out the prior post here: https://gay-fi.com/first-steps-on-the-camino/

Rancesvalles to Zubiri

• Miles Walked: 13.36
• Elevation Gain: 1,309 ft
• Elevation Loss: 2,664 ft

I left before sunrise, the trail empty, the trees glowing with frost and green moss, birds just beginning to stir. It felt like the forest was waking up around me. Magical is the only word that fits.

But I rushed. I hiked too fast, skipped breaks, and arrived in Zubiri completely wrecked. I had enough energy to eat a few hunks of Serrano ham and bread from my pack, then I collapsed in bed and slept like a stone.

The next morning, I sat with a Korean family in the dining room who insisted I eat breakfast—even though I’m not really a breakfast person. They had hardboiled eggs, apples, oranges, English muffins… it was a moment of quiet generosity I didn’t realize I needed.

Zubiri to Pamplona

• Miles Walked: 12.68
• Elevation Gain: 1,496 ft
• Elevation Loss: 1,778 ft

Today’s walk was easy, the first truly gentle one. I bumped into a Canadian and we chatted on and off throughout the morning. At one point, I found myself thinking about my dad & the necklace I’m wearing with his ashes pressing against my chest. I dropped a few tears on the trail. Not a full breakdown, just a quiet ache. I would’ve loved to tell him about all of this. He would’ve cheered me on, probably asked a million questions.

Dinner was pizza and wine because in Spain, dinner doesn’t start until 8pm and I was too hungry to wait. I’ll eat Leftovers for breakfast.

Puenta la Reina to Estella

• Miles Walked: 13.7
• Elevation Gain: 1,634 ft
• Elevation Loss: 1,398 ft

Breakfast this morning was one of the sweetest I’ve had: homemade lemon cake, a cute table setting, and little love notes left by the host at Albergue Estrella Guia in Puente La Reina.

Midway through the day, I passed a flock of sheep being herded through a small town. The smell took me right back to childhood, my dad and grandpa shearing sheep, dropping wool into a big bag while I stomped it down inside.

I also realized I’d left my wall charger back in Pamplona. My solar battery couldn’t keep up with the clouds, so I hiked to Estella in a bit of a panic, trying to make it before my phone died. It was a weird mix of stress and clarity. When the screen goes dark, the mind lights up.

Estella to Los Arcos

• Miles Walked: 13.5
• Elevation Gain: 1,526 ft
• Elevation Loss: 1,444 ft

Not every day needs to be profound. Today was just… good.

The weather surprised me by clearing up, so I shed layers and let the sun do its thing. I listened to music while I walked, a break from the internal monologue. It felt like a rest day for my brain.

I passed the famous wine fountain that offers free wine and water to pilgrims. A sign reads: “If you want to go to Santiago with strength and vitality, of this great wine have a drink and toast to happiness.” (Greatness is subjective)

Cheers to that.

Los Arcos to Logrono

• Miles Walked: 17.34
• Elevation Gain: 1,526 ft
• Elevation Loss: 1,827 ft

Longest walk so far. Lots of hills, lots of conversations.

I spent time talking with people walking for all sorts of reasons. Some were overcoming an injury, celebrating retirement, or marking a graduation. Everyone on the Camino is carrying something.

I was also attacked by a blackberry vine (okay, poked in the cheek, but still), and spent a while wondering if I’d end the day with a thorn in my face. Spoiler: I survived.

Dinner in Los Arcos was a traditional pilgrim meal including lentil stew, homemade chorizo sausages, wine that flowed freely, and a layered ice cream cake for dessert. We all sat together eating and drinking wine until bedtime, it was pretty terrific. The next morning? Lemon cake again. This trail is starting to feel like home.

I’ve been trying to stop “walking the Camino” and just… walk. To stop thinking in terms of achievement or progress and instead be present in whatever the day brings—mud, wine, sore feet, a warm bed, or a sheep memory that sneaks up on me.

I’m setting timers to remind myself to rest. I’m learning that pushing myself into exhaustion doesn’t make the experience better, it just makes it shorter. And there’s no prize at the end, just a lot of moments I might miss if I rush.

One week in. 85.58 miles. Zero blisters. A few tears. More gratitude than I know how to put into words.

Onward.